Bodhi On The Way: Savouring Every Moment of the Green Corners of Galicia: O'Cebreiro to Santiago de Compostela (27 October to 6 November, 2015)

With daylight hours shortening, the threat of cold and rain becoming ever-present, and hostels and services starting to close for the winter, we headed on into this final section of our long pilgrimage to Santiago. We had long heard about Galicia, its lack of significant population and urbanization, its rural character, sheep, Celtic past, rainstorms and foggy dark days. In short, a land of mystery. And so it would be, revealing itself behind veils of fog and mist in unexpected moments, in the friendly gestures of aged villagers, in the startling greens of its dense forests and sprawling pastures. We moved now with purpose, hardened by three months of life on the Camino in all conditions, but with one big difference: we had met some quality characters moving at our speed, and this would undoubtedly enrich and enliven the final weeks of our journey...

Exploring O'Cebreiro...

... we saw some great pallozas, Celtic-derived thatched huts which were the typical dwelling in O'Cebreiro from prehistoric times until the 1960's.

We left O'Cebreiro in great company, walking with Andrés, Eve-Marie + Dalia, and a pilgrim from Ibiza.

A view into Galicia from the high ridges beyond O'Cebreiro.

Every time we looked back it was like seeing our doubles!

O Monumento do Peregrino at 1270m. That rain in the distance wasn't long in finding us...

... Eve-Marie and Dalia were prepared, at least.

Galicia is notorious for its rain, and especially the area around O'Cebreiro, so this weather surprised nobody.

We found a hero to help us up this steep incline...

... a friendly pilgrim from South Korea who had materialized out of the fog just when we most needed him. Koreans in particular are abundant on the Camino in October.

Katy in the mist with a couple from Ukraine.

If you don't have an umbrella and your vehicle is sopping wet, this is one way to transport your precious cargo (there is a 13kg bundle of Bo under Katy's poncho). We battled pouring rain and penetrating cold all the way through this part.

By this point Bo had popped his head out, while glorious mountain panoramas opened up in all directions.

Comical matching pilgrims march past.

After a considerable descent and into mellow forest, Bo was back on the bike.

Ancient chestnut tree on the way into Triacastela...

... where Bo was first to arrive at the albergue municipal.

Colorful resident of Triacastela, who watched us keenly on our way to have Bodhi's stitches out.

A perfect spot for a picnic, the traditional village of San Cristobo on the banks of the Rio Oribio.

This section of Galicia is delightful for its remoteness and wildness, the sights and sounds of nature omnipresent.

Heading out of San Cristobo...

... and onto enticing forested tracks that are a highlight of the entire pilgrimage thus far.

Mature chestnuts will make for some tasty after-dinner treats in the following days (boiled and peeled).

No feces wanted here! These signs, spotted around the village of Renche, are absurd. But, there is a severe and growing problem with human waste along the Camino, both for being unhygienic and unsightly - a problem that will have to be solved, as one quarter of a million walkers are on the Camino Francés yearly now.

Descending down towards the magical lost Benedictine monastery of Samos...

... straddling the Rio Oribio since the 6th century!!

We stayed in the donativo albergue attached to the monastery in this dormitory hall, with pilgrims from France, Italy, Spain, Israel, Montreal, and elsewhere.

Ay que sí, que sí! Andrés was born in Costa Rica but grew up in Italy, and this is his third time on the Camino - while Dalia is off to a travelling start like Bodhi's, a citizen of the world.

Two families united. The whole crew in Samos: (L-R: Dalia, Eve-Marie, Andrés, Jeff, Katy and Bodhi). Good times.

Delving deeper into the woods beyond Samos.

Bo's attention was caught...

... by this sow...

... and by chestnuts, plentiful and ubiquitous through these woods.

Stopping to marvel at the amazing chestnut trees.

Approaching the hamlet of Gorolfe.

Lunch break and playtime.

Hovering raptor.

Some of the numerous sheep of Galicia as we near Sarria.

In Sarria we stayed at the albergue municipal, called Xunta. In Galicia they all have set prices: 6 Euros per person per night, with no charge for Bo. Can't beat that, especially if there is a kitchen present. On another note, Sarria has become a major starting point along the Camino for pilgims with less time or less inclination to longer walks - from this point it is still possible to collect the famous Compostela which officially records one's pilgrimage in the annals of the Camino.

King Alfonso IX founded Sarria in the late 12th century, and legend has it that he died in Sarria while undertaking the pilgrimage to Santiago in 1230.

O Mosteiro da Madalena, 13th century monastery in Sarria.

Gypsy Prince, ready to roll.

Across the Ponte Aspera, medieval bridge over the Río Celeiro.

Making time to explore the rich forest...

The morning's climb out of Sarria left Katy horizontal.

We may not have known what day of the week or date of the month it was at any given moment, but this Pumpkin Spider folk art along the Camino told us Halloween was near.

This stone waymarker reads: 100km to Santiago!

Pastoral scene.

... and a fab campspot in evergreen woods.

The following morning we descended steeply to Portomarín; this is the point where Bo dares no further: he's got no brakes!

At the entrance to Portomarín.

Fantastic mural art in Portomarín.

Climbing away from Portomarín we connected with Davíd, a Spanish pilgrim from Gijon who would also figure prominently in the remainder of our walk.

In sunshine now as we continue through lovely woodlands...

... the late season permitting a wildflower here and there...

...and a fine specimen of the highly poisonous Amanita muscaria.

Sunset seen from our camp in pine forest at 750m near Ligonde.

Morning break, chatting with pilgrims from Switzerland and New Zealand and a bicigrino from Turkey.

Bo sticks to his toys.

Statue seen departing Palas de Rei.

What's it like to watch thousands of pilgrims pass by day after day? No wonder she's expressionless.

A glimpse of an hórreo - a storage area built to store corn cobs, seen everywhere in Galicia.

L'Igreja de San Xulián do Camiño, 12th century.

Another steep descent...

... past the Albergue Santo Domingo, which must have the largest scallop shell along the whole Camino. Concha de la madre!

The Ponte Velha bridge into Furelos.

Graffiti reading: A crise capitalista que a paguen os ricos. Which is Galician for "Let the rich pay for the (capitalist)economic crisis." Yes.

Galicia is famous for its pulpo galego, or Galician octopus, seen in Melide.

14th-century stone cross, reputedly the oldest in Galicia.

In Melide we ran into Pirata y Princesa again (Andrés and Eve-Marie's travelling name).

A meeting of slings.

The Xunta in Ribadiso. Our stop for the night. One of the oldest pilgrim hospitals still standing (restored).

Katy plays with Bo and Dalia.

(L-R) Andrés, Jeff and David. We were a fine crew, drinking red wine, playing music and preparing a communal meal...

... all the more special knowing that hundreds of thousands of pilgrims - if not more - have eaten and slept within these walls over the last thousand years!

Bo and Davíd, already the best of friends, play some footie while we pack our bags for the day.

This time, Jeff's not alone is his suffering - he's got Andrés to commiserate. Now we have gone from crazy alone to crazy together. Galicia, you see, is an unending series of small mountains and hills and valleys, hard-as-nails if you're pushing one of these around!

Licorice ferns line the route...

... as do funky mushrooms that catch Bo's eye.

Pilgrims on a steady rhythm towards Santiago.

Memorial to a Spanish pilgrim: Abrazó a Dios a los 69 años a una jornada de Santiago. "Embraced God only one day's walk from Santiago."

... complete with life-sized renditions of his shoes.

Hórreo clearly showing its intended use.

In the Xunta in Santa Irene David shows us how to correctly serve Galician sidra (alcoholic cider).

Once again we walked under pouring relentless rain...

... inching ever closer to Santiago.

Wrapped up in an adult's poncho, held on by a bungee cord, and happy-as-can-be.

At Monte del Gozo we saw this memorial to Pope John Paul II's visit to Compostela (1982 and 1989).

Sporting a new tiger suit (courtesy of Nana) in the Xunta in Monte del Gozo.

Jeff gets some veggies going...

... while a diverse group of pilgrims uses the communal kitchen.

The two families plus David, a true Camino family unit.

Heading down towards Santiago from Monte del Gozo, as we set off on the final 4km.

At the outskirts of the city itself, we saw a memorial to some of the historical figures to have performed the pilgrimage. Santo Domingo de la Calzada above...