Bodhi On The Way: Encounters with the Meseta: Burgos to León (5 to 15 October, 2015)

As we departed Burgos after a great stay, we would head out onto what is commonly called La Meseta, a relatively high-elevation dry plateau land that covers much of north-central Spain. Pilgrims usually love it or hate it: there are fewer services, the villages are less equipped for tourists, there is little-to-no shade, and temperatures can soar in the summer months. On the other hand, the landscapes offer a peace and quietness that can be hard to find in some of the more well-travelled and densely-inhabited sections of the Camino. Luckily for us, we hit it in the month of October, when temperatures were pleasant (22-25 deg. C)... finally, ending this section we would arrive in yet another legendary city along the way: León...

Jeff, Silvia, Bodhi, Katy and Quique. Quique and Silvia graciously hosted us in their flat in Burgos.

Woman roasting chestnuts in Burgos.

El Arco de Santa Maria, 14th century entrance to the city of Burgos.

Walking up towards the ruins of el castillo...

... we had exceptional views over the city of Burgos, and especially its mindblowing cathedral.

Way marker...

... Pilgrim wisdom, saying, "Walk with you feet, go with your heart."

An unlikely find... Bo makes the most of this hammock.

Classic meseta landscape.

We found a cluster of trees and camped, absorbed by the quiet.

Katy practices Tai-Chi with an Italian bicigrino...

... at a breakfast break before the village of Hontanas.

When Bo got tired of riding, he would sometimes just throw the bike down and leave it there, forcing one of us to go after the bike and/or Bodhi.

Passing beneath the ruins of San Antón, an 11th century monastery.

Exploring the streets next to Iglesia Santa Maria of Castrojeriz.

Jeff had promised Bo a game of hike-and-seek inside the church, but it was closed!

Bo and Katy make their way up towards the center of Castrojeriz...

... where the Tau cross is a common symbol.

Leaving Castrojeriz, the Camino coincides with a Roman causeway...

... beyond which we start climbing...

...12% slopes at the end of the day are far from delicate.

Sunset skies at Alto de Mostelares.

Dinner preparation, usually consisting of brown rice/pasta/bulghur and vegetables.

Our camp near Alto de Mostelares, elev. 900m.

Dawn pilgrims on the march.

What goes up must come down.... scanning the long steep descent and the lands beyond.

An unusual statue of Santiago Peregrino with pilgrims beseeching the saint on either side.

Heading towards Boadilla del Camino we fell in with a steady stream of pilgrims...

... while Bo cashed out.

In Boadilla, Bo helps Jeff repair a puncture...

... while Katy waits beneath its Rollo, a stone pillar whose medieval function was for tying and humiliating those accused of crimes.

Ready to camp...

... in this case on the edge of a field just before Fromista.

Pilgrims attack a less-enticing section of Camino - where it parallels the main road for various kilometers.

Meseta sunset skies.

This engraving with its steady stream of feet manages to encapsulate somewhat the feeling, both physically and spiritually, of walking in the paths of so many before you.

At Carrión de los Condes we are met by this pilgrim.

The 12th century Iglesia de Santa Maria del Camino, whose arched entrance features the Romanesque detail of a common "tribute" the conquering Moors forced on local communities: the delivery of 100 maidens (seen in figures along the length of the arch).

Departing Carrión, it's obvious just how much these meseta villages identify with the Camino. Statues, figures, likenesses of Santiago and pilgrims are ubiquitous.

He's learned this from other walkers as we don't use hiking sticks!

Making tracks on a lonesome stretch of road...

... where this guy watches us pass.

Unsightly paint points pilgrims to the bar in Caldadilla de la Cueza.

Fog in our camp beyond Caldadilla...

... and drizzle in Ledigos.

Bo gets serious this time, says "Let Bodhi do it!"

Not a hobbit hole but a former wine cellar.

High-fives in Moratinos.

Katy walks with a Japanese pilgrim for a spell.

Just before Sahagun we found a wooded area to camp in...

... where Katy tries out her new rain poncho.

Sahagun. Our first encounter with turigrinos (tour groups who visit Camino sites using tour buses and walk some of the way between bus rides). Often criticized, this type of modern mass tourism threatens the very spiritual nature of the Camino itself.

Iglesia San Tirso, 12th century, with its Moorish architecture.

We stayed at this donativo in Calzada del Coto ...

... where we met pilgrims from Italy and France, amongst others.

Bo playing with a new friend...

... and listening to guitar and singing by Matt, the hospitalero at San Roque.

Encounter with bicigrinos near the village of Hermanillos.

This shot was an instant classic...

... and this one as well, where we are walking the Calzada Romana, part of the Via Trajana from Bordeaux to Astorga. Over 20 centuries old, it has been used by Augustus Caesar, Moor and Christian armies, Charlemagne, and millions of middle-age pilgrims, amongst others.