Figeac would mark our departure from river country, as we would climb up onto a vast limestone plateau called the "Causse" and follow remote tracks until eventually entering the lush agricultural region of the Tarn-et-Garonne. Numbers of walkers would drop here as the jaw-dropping scenery of previous stages mellowed out in this stretch. Temperatures remained in the low-to-mid 30's - hot, in other words - but a relief from the scorching heat of the previous stretch. By now we had established a fairly steady and successful routine: walking 6 days out of every 7, averaging 18km/day (more or less), and resting on the 7th day, usually in a municipal campground with a pool included (or nearby)...
|
How many backpacking moms are rocking this style? |
|
Vast panorama from the stunning village of Faycelles. |
|
Bo shows off his toy arsenal in camp. |
|
Climbing up gradually into the "Causse". |
|
One of the Causse's premier features: caselles, or dry stone huts, used traditionally by farmers as temporary shelters for animals, tools, or the farmers themselves. |
|
Another prominent feature of the Causse: dry stone walling. |
|
Nap time on wheels. |
|
The little man, exploring old villages... |
|
... and climbing around on dolmens, prehistoric burial chambers. |
|
We're in high spirits here. |
|
Bo braves the notoriously stony paths of the Causse. |
|
Our campsite in quiet forest land. |
|
Espying the town of Cajarc down in the valley. |
|
A brisk descent brings us to... |
|
... the river! The Lot, once more... |
|
Certainly a unique way to travel. |
|
Back up on the plateau, far reaching views of the Quercy countryside. |
|
This explosion of color and shells is a local village school's project to celebrate the Camino. Saint-Jean-de-Laur. |
|
St. Jacques Pelerin in Limogne-en-Quercy. |
|
This pilgrim brought his best friend. |
|
In the village of Varaire. |
|
Fun team here. |
|
Bo sports the bleu-blanc-rouge on his shell... |
|
... before demanding his bike and taking off down the trail! |
|
This kind of gite publicity is to be found all along the Way of Le Puy. |
|
Ain't nothin' like hot dinner cooked on a campfire after a long day's walk. |
|
Mesmerized by the fire. |
|
We found a gorgeous piece of singletrack, perfect for Bo, not-so-perfect for the Chariot. |
|
Who can argue with this guy? |
|
He gets his way and starts the long descent towards Cahors in his birthday suit. |
|
This is what it must feel like to be on display in a zoo. Arriving in a bustling city on foot with this crazy contraption and a 2-year-old inside. Needless to say we captured a lot of attention. |
|
Wednesday is market day in Cahors; we strolled in unawares and found ourselves in the middle of one of southern France's great regional public markets. And went to seek out organic artesenal bread, of course. |
|
Bo fires past Cathedrale St. Etienne. |
|
The cathedral features all kinds of bizarre creatures in its facades. |
|
More scallop shell motifs. |
|
We were welcomed in Cahors at L'Octroi de Cahors, a volunteer-run center that offers information and assistance to pilgrims in Cahors. Here we are pictured with Dutch volunteers who live in the area. |
|
The pilgrims' welcome included cold drinks and biscuits, and passport-stamping. |
|
Medieval-era door seen in Cahors. |
|
The municipal campground features a swimming pool, which we made the most of. |
|
Think this guy's got anything to complain about? |
|
The campground had organized canoe tours while we were there, for 5 Euros each! Brilliant. |
|
The three of us on the Lot, after another hot day. |
|
This was too good to be true. |
|
Pont Valentré, built in the 14th century, and one of France's most recognizable medieval bridges. |
|
Jeff, Bo and Katy crossing the bridge, a defining moment for Le Puy pilgrims. |
|
Climbing away from Cahors, we had views back over the cathedral... |
|
... and the stunning bridge. |
|
We would meet a whole bunch of long-distance pilgrims in these days, starting with this guy from Czech Republic. THAT is a serious walk (Prague-Compostela), over 3000km and more than 4 months. |
|
Another rough descent as we leave the Causse and enter Quercy Blanc. |
|
Mostly-remote lands make for easy and enjoyable camping. |
|
Look who's ready and roaring to go early in the morning while Mammy and Daddy pack up camp! |
|
Quercy Blanc is so named for the stark white appearance of its villages. Lascabanes. |
|
Chatting with a couple of pilgrims walking Le Puy-St. Jean-Pied-du-Port. |
|
A rare and treasured moment: Jeff gets a hand while climbing. |
|
In Montcuq we had a three-way harmonica jam while waiting out the midday heat. |
|
Jean-Phillippe, like us walking from Le Puy to Santiago. |
|
Bo and Jean-Phillippe share a clowning moment. |
|
We climbed the 12th century tower of Montcuq, a tight, spiralled stone staircase leading up into the sky... |
|
Views over the countryside of Quercy Blanc. |
|
A great way to cap a summer day's walk. |
|
We spent the night at this church in Rouillac, where we encountered some pilgrim friends and met several others. Ostensibly we were seeking refuge from a planned night of storms, which never materialized. |
|
This pilgrim, Italian, was walking from near Milan to Santiago. |
|
Ripe sunflowers make for some pilgrims' folk art. |
|
Lauzerte, another hilltop fortified village and our next destination: brooding in the misty distance. |
|
The rains forecast for the previous evening hit us on our way to Lauzerte and gave us a thorough soaking. |
|
We first visited Lauzerte in May (on bikes) while WWOOFing in the area, and were surprised to see how different it feels from the perspective of a pilgrim (on foot). |
|
St. Jacques Pelerin seen in the church at Lauzerte. |
|
Bo in the main plaza of Lauzerte. He really enjoyed riding all over this square. |
|
Pilgrims taking a breather. |
|
Lauzerte features some amazing old houses and architectural features. |
|
Dovecote (pigeonnier) seen at Le Chartron between Lauzerte and Durfort. This is the most fantastic pigeonnier we have yet seen. |
|
Some gorgeous forest trail as we approach Chapelle St. Sernin... |
|
Chapelle St. Sernin. |
|
Chance encounter with a sunflower. |
|
Nearing Durfort, now in the Tarn-et-Garonne (one of France's most fruit-producing departments), we came upon this unattended stand in a field, offering pilgrims fresh melons and grapes. |
|
This guy makes his choice obvious. |
|
A view over the fertile lands of the Tarn-et-Garonne. |
|
A dusk puncture, Bo cheers us up with his antics. |
|
In Durfort-Lacapellete we run into our pal Guilhem, and Bo immediately sets himself to clicking his backpack's buckles, one of his favorite pasttimes. |
|
In St. Hubert we would visit the home of a former WWOOF stay (where we were in early May of this year). |
|
We found the grapes to be ripening... |
|
... and the natural swimming pool was just what we needed. |
|
Bo examines one of the many frogs who inhabit the pool. |
|
Jeff leads storytime with Eva, Robin and Bodhi. |
|
Pictured here with some WWOOFing friends of ours: Gil, Nadine and family, and Eva. |
|
Eva shows off some of the finest specimens of our St. Hubert wild mushroom harvest: king boletes and Caesar's mushrooms. |
No comments:
Post a Comment