Bodhi On The Way


This blog follows Jeff Volk, Katy Murray and Bodhi Fell Murray-Volk as they walk from Le Puy, France to Fisterra, Spain along the Camino de Santiago: a pilgrimage of over 1600 km (1000 miles). The walk was begun on 29 July, 2015 and was completed on 14 November, 2015, or slightly more than 100 days.

Our wish is to promote sustainable travel with children, to demonstrate alternative means of raising young children, and to show that you can have fun doing it!


Thursday 17 December 2015

Traversing the Limestone Plateaus of the Causse and the White Villages of Quercy Blanc: Figeac to Moissac (14 to 25 August, 2015)

Figeac would mark our departure from river country, as we would climb up onto a vast limestone plateau called the "Causse" and follow remote tracks until eventually entering the lush agricultural region of the Tarn-et-Garonne.  Numbers of walkers would drop here as the jaw-dropping scenery of previous stages mellowed out in this stretch.  Temperatures remained in the low-to-mid 30's - hot, in other words - but a relief from the scorching heat of the previous stretch.  By now we had established a fairly steady and successful routine: walking 6 days out of every 7, averaging 18km/day (more or less), and resting on the 7th day, usually in a municipal campground with a pool included (or nearby)...

How many backpacking moms are rocking this style?

Vast panorama from the stunning village of Faycelles.


Bo shows off his toy arsenal in camp.

Climbing up gradually into the "Causse".

One of the Causse's premier features: caselles, or dry stone huts, used traditionally by farmers as temporary shelters for animals, tools, or the farmers themselves.
Another prominent feature of the Causse: dry stone walling.

Nap time on wheels.


The little man, exploring old villages...

... and climbing around on dolmens, prehistoric burial chambers.

We're in high spirits here.

Bo braves the notoriously stony paths of the Causse. 


Our campsite in quiet forest land.

Espying the town of Cajarc down in the valley.

A brisk descent brings us to...

... the river!  The Lot, once more...

Certainly a unique way to travel.

Back up on the plateau, far reaching views of the Quercy countryside.


This explosion of color and shells is a local village school's project to celebrate the Camino.  Saint-Jean-de-Laur.

St. Jacques Pelerin in Limogne-en-Quercy.
This pilgrim brought his best friend.

In the village of  Varaire.

Fun team here.

Bo sports the bleu-blanc-rouge on his shell...

... before demanding his bike and taking off down the trail!

This kind of gite publicity is to be found all along the Way of Le Puy.


Ain't nothin' like hot dinner cooked on a campfire after a long day's walk.

Mesmerized by the fire.

We found a gorgeous piece of singletrack, perfect for Bo, not-so-perfect for the Chariot.


Who can argue with this guy?

He gets his way and starts the long descent towards Cahors in his birthday suit.

This is what it must feel like to be on display in a zoo.  Arriving in a bustling city on foot with this crazy contraption and a 2-year-old inside.  Needless to say we captured a lot of attention.

Wednesday is market day in Cahors; we strolled in  unawares and found ourselves in the middle of one of southern France's great regional public markets.  And went to seek out organic artesenal bread, of course.

Bo fires past Cathedrale St. Etienne.

The cathedral features all kinds of bizarre creatures in its facades.

More scallop shell motifs.

We were welcomed in Cahors at L'Octroi de Cahors, a volunteer-run center that offers information and assistance to pilgrims in Cahors.  Here we are pictured with Dutch volunteers who live in the area.

The pilgrims' welcome included cold drinks and biscuits, and passport-stamping.
Medieval-era door seen in Cahors.

The municipal campground features a swimming pool, which we made the most of.

Think this guy's got anything to complain about?

The campground had organized canoe tours while we were there, for 5 Euros each!   Brilliant.

The three of us on the Lot, after another hot day. 

This was too good to be true.

Pont ValentrĂ©, built in the 14th century, and one of France's most recognizable medieval bridges.  
Jeff, Bo and Katy crossing the bridge, a defining moment for Le Puy pilgrims.

Climbing away from Cahors, we had views back over the cathedral...

... and the stunning bridge.  

We would meet a whole bunch of long-distance pilgrims in these days, starting with this guy from Czech Republic.  THAT is a serious walk (Prague-Compostela), over 3000km and more than 4 months.

Another rough descent as we leave the Causse and enter Quercy Blanc.

Mostly-remote lands make for easy and enjoyable camping.

Look who's ready and roaring to go early in the morning while Mammy and Daddy pack up camp!

Quercy Blanc is so named for the stark white appearance of its villages.  Lascabanes.


Chatting with a couple of pilgrims walking Le Puy-St. Jean-Pied-du-Port.

A rare and treasured moment: Jeff gets a hand while climbing.

In Montcuq we had a three-way harmonica jam while waiting out the midday heat.  

Jean-Phillippe, like us walking from Le Puy to Santiago.

Bo and Jean-Phillippe share a clowning moment.

We climbed the 12th century tower of Montcuq, a tight, spiralled stone staircase leading up into the sky...

Views over the countryside of Quercy Blanc.

A great way to cap a summer day's walk.


We spent the night at this church in Rouillac, where we encountered some pilgrim friends and met several others.  Ostensibly we were seeking refuge from a planned night of storms, which never materialized.

This pilgrim, Italian, was walking from near Milan to Santiago.

Ripe sunflowers make for some pilgrims' folk art.

Lauzerte, another hilltop fortified village and our next destination: brooding in the misty distance.
The rains forecast for the previous evening hit us on our way to Lauzerte and gave us a thorough soaking.

We first visited Lauzerte in May (on bikes) while WWOOFing in the area, and were surprised to see how different it feels from the perspective of a pilgrim (on foot).

St. Jacques Pelerin seen in the church at Lauzerte.

Bo in the main plaza of Lauzerte.  He really enjoyed riding all over this square.

Pilgrims taking a breather.


Lauzerte features some amazing old houses and architectural features.


Dovecote (pigeonnier) seen at Le Chartron between Lauzerte and Durfort.  This is the most fantastic pigeonnier we have yet seen.  

Some gorgeous forest trail as we approach Chapelle St. Sernin... 

Chapelle St. Sernin.

Chance encounter with a sunflower.

Nearing Durfort, now in the Tarn-et-Garonne (one of France's most fruit-producing departments), we came upon this unattended stand in a field, offering pilgrims fresh melons and grapes.

This guy makes his choice obvious.

A view over the fertile lands of the Tarn-et-Garonne.
A dusk puncture, Bo cheers us up with his antics.
In Durfort-Lacapellete we run into our pal Guilhem, and Bo immediately sets himself to clicking his backpack's buckles, one of his favorite pasttimes.

In St. Hubert we would visit the home of a former WWOOF stay (where we were in early May of this year).
We found the grapes to be ripening...

... and the natural swimming pool was just what we needed.

Bo examines one of the many frogs who inhabit the pool.

Jeff leads storytime with Eva, Robin and Bodhi.
Pictured here with some WWOOFing friends of ours: Gil, Nadine and family, and Eva.

Eva shows off some of the finest specimens of our St. Hubert wild mushroom harvest: king boletes and Caesar's mushrooms.  



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